DEAR DR. BLONZ: What are your thoughts about farmed salmon, and how color additives are used to make it look like wild salmon? Do you have issues with farmed fish? -- M.C., Hayward, California
DEAR M.C.: The "you are what you eat" paradigm applies to fish as well as to humans. You may be surprised to learn that the genetically predetermined color of salmon is closer to gray. The characteristic "salmon pink" is a byproduct of their diet -- through their consumption of color compound-rich plants and algae, and also from eating smaller crustaceans or other fish that have eaten those colorful items. A key color compound is astaxanthin, a reddish antioxidant pigment in the carotenoid family. Interestingly, canthaxanthin, a compound related to astaxanthin, is used in tanning pills; when taken as a supplement, their color distributes in the fatty layer of the skin to provide the "tanning" effect (for more on tanning pills, check b.link/3rjug8).
Wild salmon get their color naturally, but farm-raised fish get it only if purposefully fed plants or animals containing the color-causing compounds, or if a color additive is added to their feed. Aside from individuals who might have a sensitivity or allergy to carotenoid compounds, there is no evidence of risk to consumers from astaxanthin when used as a "natural" color compound in fish feed. Check with your health professional if you have any concerns.
Regarding farmed fish in general, I lean toward wild-caught fish when available, but it's not a rigid preference. A wild fish caught in yucky waters offers no health advantage over fish raised in a sustainably managed fish farm.
I encourage consumers to speak with their fish suppliers to learn about the origins of the wild or farmed fish they are considering. Ideally, sellers should have this posted on the package or display case. This information should also be available from supermarket chains, but you may have to ask the manager. Always remember that you are the customer; let them know that if they want your business, they need to be upfront with such information. If you are given the name of a supplier, you can do your own research online to find out more.
It's great to find a fishmonger that does this type of screening for the customer as a matter of routine. This research also makes sense for your meat and poultry purchases. Your question relates to salmon, which is definitely a favorite in our house. We sometimes purchase wild salmon, but often go for sustainably farmed fish, such as that from Loch Duarte, a fish farm in Scotland (cleanfish.com). It's in our local market, but I encourage you to check at your local fish store for this or a similar line of sustainably raised fish, or you can encourage your store to carry one. Stores seek to offer what their customers prefer, but often you need let them know exactly what that is.
Send questions to: "On Nutrition," Ed Blonz, c/o Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO, 64106. Send email inquiries to questions@blonz.com. Due to the volume of mail, personal replies cannot be provided.