DEAR MISS MANNERS: If 19th-century “upper crust” Americans thought that aping British aristocracy was the height of sophistication, how is it that the American style of eating (swapping the fork from the right hand to the left, and then back again) became the American standard?
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GENTLE READER: Actually, those Americans were using the style of eating prevalent in Europe when their forebears emigrated to the United States, and just didn’t change when Europeans dumbed down the rules.
A note of caution here: It is never the most advantaged layer of society -- aristocrats, or what you call the upper crust -- who welcome change. Being on top, they think things are just fine as they are. Rather, it is those on the rise who seek ways to distinguish themselves from those whose ranks they have risen above.
The fork arrived in England long after it did in Italy and France, and in the 19th century, there were still some landed aristocrats who resisted its use. And when they did use it, it was to replace the knife or spoon hitherto in use in the right hand.
It was the newly rich beneficiaries of the Industrial Revolution who invented specialized flatware -- and, unpleasantly, used it as a social test. Aristocrats scorned this as long as they could. But that was only until the prudence of their marrying into the moneyed set became obvious.