DEAR DR. FOX: I read your recent article about the unnecessary rabies shots for indoor-only cats.

I am in complete agreement with you, but I'm at a loss as to what to do when the veterinarian we use insists that the cat (in my case, it's more than one) be given the shot. There is also the law, and he reminds me of that every time.

Our kitties do not -- and never will -- go outside. They won't get out accidentally either, as neither of them shows any interest in going outdoors.

Please advise on what you suggest I do. Changing vets is not an option, as we live quite far away, and they all seem to share the same rule regarding this vaccination. -- S.A., Ocean View, Del.

DEAR S.A.: Any government (local, state or federal) that mandates certain medical procedures is ostensibly doing so with the best intentions in service to the greater good. But such mandates must be based on sound science and guided by bioethics to allow for case-by-case exceptions; otherwise, there is neither transparency nor accountability -- and the absence of those qualities is the hallmark of totalitarianism.

It is highly questionable, if not draconian, to mandate annual anti-rabies vaccinations for cats who never go outdoors (and annual vaccinations for dogs when three-year interval vaccines are available). There is also the question of the duration of immunity following vaccination. In many instances, booster shots are not needed.

For more details, and to support research and future reforms as needed in this area, visit rabieschallengefund.org. The organization reports that the state of California passed legislation in October 2011 allowing veterinarians to write exceptions for animals whose health may be put at risk by vaccination. California is the 14th state to enact such legislation. Have your veterinarian run blood tests to determine antibody titers, which may show that your cats do not need additional rabies vaccinations. Your animals' doctor could write a note if that is the case, indicating that revaccination was not deemed necessary.

DEAR DR. FOX: This is not a medical question, but I would like to know how to get my baby parakeet to be people-friendly.

This is our fifth parakeet. I had the last one for 12 years. He was very friendly, but he didn't talk much. All of my previous birds were yellow males (or so I was told).

Number five is a very busy bird: He loves his cage and toys, and, more important, he has a good appetite. His wings were clipped and are now growing in.

What can I do to get him to perch on a hand or allow me to touch or pet him? He threatens to bite whenever I approach him. -- S.A., Jupiter, Fla.

DEAR S.A.: Your parakeet is still young and is behaviorally flexible, so establishing friendly social bonds with humans should be easy. My guess is that he came from a breeder. Before you purchased him, he was with other birds, he bonded with them and had minimal human contact. So you must be patient with him and not force contact.

Parakeets (budgerigars) are highly social birds. They live in flocks in the wild. Once your bird habituates to your presence, caregiving routines and chatty conversations with him, his need for social affirmation should result in him becoming attached to you, his caregiver and surrogate flockmate.

For short periods, put a tough work glove in his cage to get used to, then wear it and offer him his favorite treat from your glove-protected hand. You will be less afraid, and you won't make sudden avoidance movements. This will make him less apprehensive, since fear is a contagious emotion. Once he is bonded with you, I would advise you to consider adopting another parakeet -- birds of a feather belong together. To deprive your bird of contact with his own species in order to imprint onto humans and facilitate his learning to speak is ethically abhorrent, even though it is the norm.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)

DEAR DR. FOX: I have a 6-year-old female beagle. She weighs 30 pounds, has underactive thyroid glands and is taking Thyro-Tab.

She had a problem with eating stool. I give her Nasty Habit Chewables. It helps.

My dog also has an anal gland problem. She has to have the glands expressed every three weeks. The vet has her on a reduced diet of dry dog food to control her weight. I have been adding psyllium to her dry food to give her more fiber for her gland problem. It doesn't seem to be helping. She is always hungry. I don't know what to do for her. I don't think she is getting enough nutritious food. -- J.O., Arlington, Va.

DEAR J.O.: I would say that your dog fits the profile of what I would call "American middle-aged dog syndrome." She's probably going to develop arthritis, skin problems and heart, liver and/or kidney disease next.

I don't mean to alarm you, just alert you and other dog owners about this health crisis, which is brought on by poor nutrition -- especially the high cereal and genetically modified content of dog foods -- lack of exercise and too-frequent administration of vaccinations and anti-flea and tick drugs. This combination creates a vicious cycle of weight gain, increased pain and anxiety and decreased interest in life, often with cognitive impairment and failing senses, notably hearing loss and cataracts.

Please visit the archives on my website, DrFoxVet.com, or get my book, "Dog Body, Dog Mind" (Lyons Press), to get your dog through this crisis and in better shape to face old age.

Dogs on many commercial weight-loss diets suffer from constant hunger and possibly malnutrition. This should not be: Feed your dog three or four small meals daily. Transition her onto my home-prepared diet, available on my website, gradually reducing the grain content down by 75 percent. Give her probiotics, but no iodine or seaweed supplements, which can make the thyroid problem worse. Ask your veterinarian to prescribe a multivitamin and multimineral supplement for her. Add a tablespoon of coconut oil to her food every day.

Anal gland problems are often associated with a food allergy or intolerance. The psyllium may help her, but being more active could make a big difference. Get her outdoors for regular walks, and encourage physical activities. Try jogging, interactive games with a ball or Frisbee or playing with another friendly dog. But start this regimen gradually, otherwise torn cruciate ligaments in one or both knees could be the next issue for your poor dog!

DEAR DR. FOX: My cat is driving me crazy. I have three cats, and the "middle" cat is 3 years old.

About two years ago, she decided that my throw rugs were her personal urinals. She usually targets the ones in the bathroom, but if I remove those, she chooses the one in the kitchen. She still uses the litter box, and she never urinates on anything else in the house.

I love her dearly, but I am getting so tired of having to wash my rugs every week. I clean the litter box every day, I've given her extra attention and treats so she's happy and I've sprayed the rugs with everything under the sun hoping the smells will stop her. Nothing has worked!

I'm at my wit's end, and I don't know what to do with her. I'm afraid if I remove all throw rugs, she'll decide to start urinating on the furniture.

What is causing this bizarre fetish? Can you help me? -- N.C., Tulsa, Okla.

DEAR N.C.: Your provisional diagnosis is probably correct -- the texture of your throw rugs is like a fetish for your cat.

Certain materials, the old beanbags of the '70s being a prime example, can trigger a cat's toilet behavior. Other factors may be involved, such as her preferring a cleaner litter box. Try giving her an extra litter box placed on one of the throw rugs. That might help.

Many cats urinate outside of their litter boxes because they suffer from cystitis and bladder stones/calculi. Check this out with your veterinarian. When dealing with what seems like a behavioral/psychological issue, medical causes need to be ruled out first.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)

DEAR DR. FOX: Sophie is my 4-year-old silky terrier, and she has become restless at night. She wakes my husband and me by licking our faces and walking all over us. She seems to hardly ever sleep.

Why the licking? What can I do about the restlessness? -- G.B., Silver Spring, Md.

DEAR G.B.: Sleepless Sophie in Silver Spring is licking you and walking over you in the bed because she wants attention.

Is she waking you up because she needs to relieve herself? What are your daily and evening routines? A long walk or run in the yard before you turn in, an evening meal around 7 p.m. so she's not hungry in the middle of the night and plenty of exercise and outdoor stimulation during the day so she will tire herself out -- these are points to consider.

You may get a few nights of uninterrupted sleep by putting her in a crate with a blanket or towel on which she can nap. Leave the crate open during the day, and put treats and toys inside it so she associates the crate with reward. The crate may be her "den" that she will retire to and feel secure. You shouldn't have to close the crate door unless you need to re-train her if she reverts to jumping on your bed and waking you up.

DEAR DR. FOX: I've adopted a wonderful, sweet cat from the shelter, but she has come with a serious ear issue.

When I took her to be checked by my vet, her ear canal was completely blocked by hardened wax and a serious ear infection, and her eardrum was completely deteriorated. After otoscopic surgery and weeks on prednisolone and Baytril, she has made a wonderful recovery and regained her balance and spirit. But because of nerve damage to the ear, her hearing and vision on the left side are impaired.

The problem now is that black earwax continues to build up in the ear. As it works its way toward the surface, I am able to remove it carefully without using cotton swabs, but I cannot get it all. Is this going to be a forever problem? Can you give me any advice for cleaning the ear better without causing her ear canal any harm? This cat is so worth it. Her name is Contessa. -- J.D.S., Fargo, N.D.

DEAR J.D.S.: Good for you for adopting a sick cat and providing her with appropriate veterinary care. Many kittens develop chronic ear and upper respiratory problems, which, when neglected, can mean a lifelong battle. They may get well, but the chronic health issue returns when the cat is stressed. Good nutrition and supplements such as fish oil and probiotics are very helpful.

Often when there is a black, proliferative secretion in one or both ears, and especially when the cat is scratching behind the ears, there is an underlying ear mite infestation. The mites must be treated before secondary bacterial and fungal infections and associated inflammation can be tackled.

One effective ear product is an enzyme-based cleaner manufactured by PKB Animal Health called Zymox. First use the product that contains hydrocortisone for three to four days, and then switch to the basic Zymox otic enzymatic solution. Call PKB at 888-752-5487 for more information. You can also request your veterinarian provide the cleaner and clinically evaluate it on your cat.

KILLING WEEDS THAT HEAL

Homeowners across the U.S. are using chemicals on their lawns to kill dandelions and other weeds, many of which have healing properties and nutritional value. Dogs on properties where herbicides are used frequently have a higher incidence of one form of leukemia. It is ironic that the dandelion, long used as a nutritious salad ingredient and for liver and kidney problems, may hold the cure for leukemia.

According to CBC News, researchers at the University of Windsor, Ontario, led by Siyaram Pandey, a biochemist, have discovered that dandelion root extract forced a very aggressive and drug-resistant type of blood cancer cell, known as chronic monocytic myeloid leukemia, to essentially commit suicide. Repeated treatment with low-dose dandelion root extract was effective in killing most of the cancerous cells.

(Send all mail to animaldocfox@gmail.com or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.

Visit Dr. Fox's website at DrFoxVet.com.)