TasteFood

If one vegetable symbolizes autumn, it's the Brussels sprout. When these little crucifers appear in the market, it means it's time to pull on our sweaters and plan our holiday menus. At the same time, if one vegetable symbolizes dinner challenges, it's also the Brussels sprout, because when these mini-cabbages appear on the table, you can be sure there will be strong reactions from those who love 'em and from those who hate 'em. Hence, the eternal question: In the spirit of holiday togetherness, how can we serve these hearty sprouts for everyone to enjoy?

This recipe has a few simple techniques that just might win over any steadfast sprout-hater. The trick is to roast the Brussels sprouts, which softens their assertive and firm cabbagelike properties and accentuates their natural sweetness. Grapes are roasted along with the sprouts, so they coat the sprouts with their winey juices and lend more sweetness. A good shellacking of pomegranate balsamic vinegar toward the end of the roasting provides a lip-smacking caramelized finish. Finally, the sprouts, grapes and juices are tossed with farro and toasted walnuts, creating a rustic and satisfying dish, which is nutty, sweet and not too dense with sprouts. There are just enough to satisfy both the lovers and haters at your dinner table. So give this dish a try and let me know how it goes.

Pomegranate Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Grapes With Farro

Note: Pomegranate balsamic vinegar is available in specialty stores and well-stocked supermarkets. You can make your own by whisking together 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar and 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses.

Active Time: 40 minutes

Total Time: 40 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish

1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved (or quartered, if large)

3/4 pound seedless red grapes

2 sprigs fresh thyme

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup pomegranate balsamic vinegar

1 cup cooked farro, warm or at room temperature

1/4 cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Toss the Brussels sprouts, grapes, thyme sprigs, oil, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven; drizzle the pomegranate balsamic vinegar over and stir to coat. Return the baking sheet to the oven and roast until the sprouts are tender and the grapes have begun to shrivel, about 15 more minutes. Remove from the oven, discard the thyme sprigs and transfer to a serving bowl. Add the farro and walnuts and toss to combine. Serve warm or at room temperature.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

I won't lie: These short ribs take two days to make. Now, before you roll your eyes, just hear me out. Most of the time you will have little to do in the food prep department, because the ribs will take care of themselves, braising in the oven or marinating in the refrigerator. You will be actively involved in the beginning, when you brown the meat (a very important step, which will make you feel useful), and when you reduce the sauce (which, technically, your stove will do for you), and when you finish the stew an hour before serving. Your most difficult task will be, well, waiting.

All the time invested is for good reason: to tenderize the beef to a supple version of itself, and to infuse the meat and sauce with knock-your-socks-off flavor. So go ahead and give it a try. Start on a Friday and eat it over the weekend. Feel free to double the amount, so you can freeze the extras for a rainy day or an impromptu dinner party.

Red Wine and Chipotle Braised Short Ribs

Active Time: 1 1/2 hours

Total Time: 4 1/2 hours, plus 24 hours to refrigerate

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

3 1/2 to 4 pounds beef short ribs, cut into 3-inch pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 large onion, chopped

1 large carrot, chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground paprika

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 (750-ml) bottle heavy-bodied red wine

1/4 cup chipotles in adobo, chopped (with juices)

1 bay leaf

2 cups beef stock

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Vegetables:

1 tablespoon olive oil

8 ounces pearl onions, peeled

1 to 2 large carrots, peeled, sliced 1/2-inch thick

Pinch of salt

Chopped Italian parsley leaves for garnish

Day 1:

Generously season the short ribs with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before browning.

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high. In batches, without crowding the pan, brown the ribs well on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer the meat to a plate and repeat with the remaining ribs.

Drain off the fat from the pot. Add 1 tablespoon oil, the onion, carrot and garlic. Saute the vegetables over medium heat until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes, stirring up any brown bits in the pan. Add the cumin, paprika and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add the tomato paste and stir to create a nice slurry. Add the wine, chipotles and bay leaf; return the ribs and any collected juices to the pot. Pour in the beef stock. If the ribs are not completely covered with the liquid, add more stock or wine to top off the ribs. Bring to a boil and immediately turn off the heat. Cover the pot, transfer to the oven, and cook until the ribs are very tender, about 3 hours, stirring every hour or so.

Remove the pot from the oven. Uncover and let the braise cool slightly. At this point you can remove the bones and cut away any gristle from the ribs or proceed with the bones intact -- however you like to serve ribs. Cover the pot and refrigerate overnight. (This step will allow the fat to congeal on the top of the stew, which will be easily removed before proceeding the next day. It also allows the flavors to develop overnight.)

Day 2:

At least 1 hour before serving, remove the pot from the refrigerator and lift off the layer of fat from the surface of the stew. Gently reheat the stew over medium-low until the stock is liquid enough to remove the ribs. Carefully remove the ribs from the sauce and arrange in one layer in a large baking dish.

Strain the sauce through a strainer, pressing down on the solids to extract as much flavor as possible, and transfer the sauce to a large saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer until the sauce is reduced by about half and has a thickened to a rich consistency, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the balsamic vinegar and sugar and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Heat a large skillet over medium. Add the oil, onions, carrots and a pinch of salt; saute until the vegetables are crisp-tender and bright in color, about 3 minutes, and add to the sauce. Pour the sauce over and around the short ribs and transfer to the oven. Roast, uncovered, until the meat is thoroughly heated through, about 20 minutes. Serve warm, garnished with parsley.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

After I finished cooking school in Paris, I lived in Switzerland for a number of years. During this time, I acquired another important form of education, which is the Swiss view of chocolate as sustenance. In Switzerland, chocolate is considered a staple and a panacea for all that is fraught in the world. It's found in every lunch box, ski-pack and kitchen pantry. It's not considered a dessert, but its own food group. Swiss chocolate transcends all nutritional categories, and is arguably a national symbol, ranking equally with banks, cows and the Matterhorn. In a manner of classic Swiss efficiency, chocolate is the multitasking equivalent of a power bar, a balanced diet, a healthy psyche and an aspirin.

I lived near Geneva, not far from France, and crossed the border regularly to shop in French supermarkets. When I returned, the Swiss border guards would regularly stop me and question my purchases, since there were strict restrictions on quantities of wine, cheese, and meat that could be acquired abroad.

One day, when I was still new to the country, I returned with some French chocolate. When I informed the Swiss guards that I had chocolate in my shopping bags, they gaped at me in disbelief. Never mind the visible case of Burgundy wine, the kilos of runny French cheese or the side of beef strapped into my backseat -- they were appalled that I had the gall and obvious lack of taste to purchase French chocolate instead of Swiss. In their minds, I had committed an act of treachery and diminished my already lowly foreign status. The next time I crossed the border, I would have to wear a paper bag over my head.

I learned my lesson: Integrating meant more than learning the local language and paying taxes. It also meant buying Swiss chocolate. Now, many years and several countries later, I continue to buy Swiss chocolate, or what I call the Swiss remedy for everything. So, when it's time to bake treats for the holidays, or when I am simply in need of a little pick-me-up or mood booster, I turn to a bar of Swiss chocolate for an uplifting and restorative pleasure.

Swiss Brownie Bites

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour, plus 6 to 24 hours refrigerating time

Yield: makes 50 to 60 small squares

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the pan

12 ounces high-quality dark (65 to 70 percent) chocolate (preferably Swiss), coarsely chopped

3 large eggs

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan; line the bottom with parchment and butter the parchment.

Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl.

Melt the butter and chocolate in a double boiler or heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally, until smooth. Remove from heat.

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a medium bowl until light and fluffy; stir in the vanilla. Add the chocolate and stir to blend. Add the flour mixture; stir until just combined, without over-mixing. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan; transfer to the oven and bake until the top is set and the sides begin to pull away from the pan, about 25 minutes. (The brownies will be fudgy, and a wooden toothpick may not come out clean at this point.)

Cool the brownies completely on a rack. Cover with foil and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight. Remove the brownie block from the pan and cut into 1-inch squares. Store the brownies in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS