You might call this recipe a two-fer. It’s not just about the roasted delicata squash. It’s also about the smear of labneh that accompanies it.

Delicata is a small, oblong winter squash with green and yellow striated skin. The skin is edible (and nutrient-rich), so there’s no need to peel it. Delicata cooks quickly, and roasting is an easy method that amplifies its sweet and creamy flavor. Halve the squash lengthwise or slice into thin rings or half-moons to roast.

Labneh is a soft cheese made from strained cultured dairy products, such as yogurt and kefir. It’s a tangy, creamy Middle Eastern staple that is often used as a dip and spread. It’s also packed with probiotics and nutrients such as calcium and vitamin A.

In this recipe, labneh provides a luxurious swipe for the roasted squash. The labneh is infused with preserved lemons and za’atar (a Middle Eastern spice mix), which bring salty, citrusy zing to the creamy labneh. Preserved lemons are lemons that are salted and brined in their own juice. The brining process softens their skin, which you can eat. When buying preserved lemons, save the juices in the jar to use as a flavor booster. A final shower of pistachios and lemon zest dresses up the finished dish.

You can purchase labneh, preserved lemons and za’atar in well-stocked markets or specialty stores. You can also make your own labneh; a recipe is provided below.

Roasted Delicata Squash With Labneh

Active time: 10 minutes

Total time: 35 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

Squash:

2 medium delicata squash, sliced crosswise in 1/2-inch-thick rings, seeds removed

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Labneh:

1 cup prepared labneh (recipe below)

1/2 preserved lemon, pulp removed, skin finely diced, divided

1 small garlic clove, grated or minced

2 teaspoons jarred preserved lemon juice (or fresh lemon juice)

1/2 teaspoon za’atar

Garnishes:

Chopped fresh mint, chopped pistachios, finely grated lemon zest

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the squash in a bowl. Drizzle with the oil and spices and toss to coat.

Spread the squash in one layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast in the oven until tender and charred in spots, about 25 minutes, flipping the squash once.

While the squash roasts, scoop the labneh into a bowl. Add half of the preserved lemon skin, the garlic, lemon juice and za’atar and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning.

To serve, smear the labneh on a serving platter or individual serving plates. Arrange the squash over the labneh. Garnish with the remaining chopped lemon skin, mint, pistachios and lemon zest.

Labneh

Active time: 5 minutes

Total time: 5 minutes plus draining time

Yield: Makes about 2 cups

4 cups whole milk plain yogurt

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Mix the yogurt and the salt in a bowl. Line a sieve with cheesecloth and place over a bowl, with space between the bottom of the sieve and the bowl to separate any drained liquid. Place the yogurt in the cheesecloth. Cover the sieve and refrigerate for 24 hours. Remove the labneh from the cheesecloth and transfer to a glass container. Store in the refrigerator for up to one week.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

Bowls are a popular and trendy category of food. The concept is simple: An individual serving bowl is arranged with various composed ingredients, such as cooked grains, vegetables, salads and proteins, that are connected by flavors and spices from regional cuisines. It’s a satisfying and healthy sum of its individual parts -- and fun to eat.

The variations are limitless, and the seasonings and cultural influences are the distinguishing factors. A bowl may contain fresh or stir-fried vegetables, pickles and salsas, beans or legumes, rice or another grain, and cooked proteins, such as meat, chicken, tofu or shrimp.

This recipe is influenced by Southwestern cuisine. You can play with the ingredients and mix and match to your preference. Tofu, the main protein in the bowl, is a wonderful vessel for a marinade, and when cooked, its edges crisp, yielding a delightful texture. It’s important to drain tofu and press it before cooking. This step removes any excess liquid, which ensures crispy results. Not a tofu fan? Skirt or flank steak, chicken or shrimp are great substitutions.

Note that the rice and salsa require advance preparation before assembling the bowl. They can be prepped while the tofu presses and marinates. They also make nice side dishes for other meals.

Southwestern Tofu Bowl With Corn Salsa and Cilantro Rice

Active time: 1 hour

Total time: 1 hour plus draining and marinating time

Yield: Serves 4

1 (14-ounce) package extra-firm tofu

Marinade:

1 to 2 chipotles in adobo sauce, plus 2 tablespoons juice from the can

2 garlic cloves, grated or minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 tablespoon soy sauce or tamari

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Rice:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup long-grain white rice

1 1/2 cups water

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Salsa:

1 1/2 cups cooked black beans or 1 (14-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed

Kernels from 1 ear of yellow corn or 1 cup defrosted frozen corn

1 small poblano pepper, seeded, finely diced

1/2 small red onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and black pepper

1 cup halved grape or cherry tomatoes

2 avocados, halved and sliced

Cilantro sprigs

Lime wedges

Drain the tofu and slice each block in half. Place the tofu on a cutting board lined with a kitchen towel or paper towels. Place several layers of paper towels on top and weigh down with another cutting board. Let stand for at least 30 minutes to drain. Once drained, cut into bite-size cubes.

While the tofu is draining, combine the marinade ingredients in a food processor and process to blend.

Arrange the drained tofu in one layer in a baking dish. Pour the marinade over and turn the tofu to coat. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

While the tofu is marinating, make the rice. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the rice; stir to coat and lightly toast, 15 to 30 seconds. Add the water and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover the pot and cook until the liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, remove the lid and place a kitchen towel over the pot. Cover with the lid and let stand for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and towel and fluff the rice with a fork. Add the cilantro and lime juice and fluff once more.

Combine the salsa ingredients in a bowl and mix to blend. Taste for seasoning.

Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat. Arrange the tofu on the skillet and cook until browned on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and season with salt and black pepper.

Divide the rice between four serving bowls. Arrange the tofu, salsa, tomatoes and avocado over the rice. Drizzle with the reserved marinade, if desired. Garnish with additional cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

A miso-infused glaze is a handy condiment that lends rich and satisfying flavor to fish, vegetables and tofu. Miso is a paste made from soybeans that are fermented with salt and a koji starter (kojikin). It’s a complete source of protein and is rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, while its fermentation process promotes the growth of probiotics. In addition to its notable health benefits, miso has an appealing savory, salty-sweet quality, known as umami, which is a powerful flavor enhancer.

Miso is not limited to glazes. Add it to butter, cream sauces, mayonnaise and dressings for extra umami flavor, or stir a final dollop into soups, mashed potatoes -- even pasta. It also adds a wonderful salty note to cookies and sweets. Note that miso is very salty, so moderate the amount of salt (or soy) you may include in any recipe with miso. Miso is available in different varieties: white, yellow and red. The darker the color, the stronger the flavor. When using it with a mild white fish, such as a halibut, use a lighter miso. Any firm, flaky white fish, such as halibut, cod, sea bass or grouper, can be used in this recipe.

Miso Glazed Halibut

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes, plus marinating time

Yield: Serves 4

Marinade:

3 tablespoons white miso

2 tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce or tamari

1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

4 center-cut halibut fillets, each about 6 ounces

Chopped scallions for garnish

Toasted sesame seeds for sprinkling

Whisk the marinade ingredients in a small bowl. Arrange the fish in one layer in a glass container. Pour the marinade over the fish and turn to coat. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes (or refrigerate for up to 2 hours).

Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Wipe off all but a thin layer of marinade from the fish.

Arrange the fish skin-side down on the baking sheet. Broil no closer than 6 inches under the broiler element until the top is deep golden brown and the fish is cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish. Keep an eye on the fish, as the sugars in the glaze may begin to burn. If this happens, transfer the baking sheet to a lower rack in the oven.

Serve garnished with the chopped scallions and toasted sesame seeds.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood