A hit of salt is a key ingredient in sugary desserts. As enticing as sweet confections are, an abundance of sugar can be cloying, leaving the palate searching for that extra something to balance the sweetness. Salt is the answer.

A little salt disappears into desserts, helpfully reducing any bitterness or sourness. But you don’t always need to be modest: In some desserts, an extra kick of salt -- where it is notably detected -- not only tames the sugar, but enhances umami. Umami is that difficult-to-describe taste sensation that is considered the sixth taste. It adds a deep, savory and rich element to food, working in harmony with the ingredients.

In the case of these sugary caramelized pecan bars, the sensation of umami accentuates the burnished caramel topping and toasty nuts and complements the buttery shortbread. The flavor is balanced and moreish, encouraging second (and third) helpings. If desired, double the recipe and bake in a 9-by-13-inch baking pan.

Pecan Shortbread Bars

Active time: 40 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Makes about 16 small squares

Crust:

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup rice flour or cornstarch

1/3 cup confectioners' sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, diced

Filling:

3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter

2/3 cup packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons honey

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons heavy cream

2 cups chopped pecans

Sea salt flakes, for sprinkling

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch-square baking pan and line with parchment.

Make the crust: Combine the AP flour, rice flour, confectioners' sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse once or twice to blend. Add the cold butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand.

Dump the mixture (it will be dry and crumbly) into the prepared pan and press to form an even layer. Transfer to the oven and bake until the edges of the crust are golden and the center is just set, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool.

Make the filling: Combine the butter, brown sugar, honey, vanilla and salt in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let boil for 1 to 2 minutes, then whisk in the cream until smooth. Add in the pecans and stir to combine.

Evenly spread the filling over the crust. Transfer to the oven and bake until the filling is bubbling and caramel in color, 18 to 20 minutes. (It will still be wet.) Transfer to a rack and sprinkle with sea salt flakes. Cool completely. The filling will firm up as it cools.

Cut into bars or squares. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

During this festive season, with its lengthy to-do lists, socializing and houseguests, a simple dinner sandwiched between holiday prep provides a welcome respite. A recipe that’s rustic and easy, with optional shortcuts, is satisfying and comforting and can be enjoyed at the kitchen table or in front of the fire. And guess what? It can also stand in as a low-key appetizer, divvied into small portions and offered to unannounced visitors or lingering houseguests who seem to have misplaced their car keys.

This is a white pizza, which means there is no tomato sauce. The ingredients on the pizza evoke the mountains, with nutty, alpine cheese and slippery golden onions. For the easiest prep, use a prepared pizza dough. There are many options available in supermarkets of decent quality. This recipe provides instructions for oven-baking, but the pizza can also be prepared on a grill over indirect high heat.

If you have the time and bandwidth, try the recipe below for homemade dough. It’s an adapted recipe from Roberta’s, a popular Brooklyn pizzeria, via Sam Sifton at The New York Times. It’s easy to make but requires rising time, preferably overnight in the refrigerator. For your extra effort, gift yourself with a double recipe and freeze the extras for later use. (Simply defrost the frozen dough overnight in the refrigerator before using.)

Caramelized Onion and Gruyere Pizza

Active time: 40 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Makes one 12- to 14-inch pizza

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 large yellow onions, halved, thinly sliced

Kosher salt

1 large garlic clove, grated

1 ball prepared pizza dough, about 1 pound, defrosted if frozen, at room temperature

1/3 cup packed finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, divided

1 cup packed grated Gruyere cheese, about 4 ounces

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, plus more for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook the onions until they are soft, golden and beginning to caramelize in spots, 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and garlic in a small bowl.

Place a pizza stone on the lowest rack in the oven. Heat the oven to its highest setting, about 500 degrees.

Generously dust a pizza peel with flour or line a rimless baking sheet with a piece of parchment. Thinly roll or stretch the dough into a 12- to 14-inch circle or oval (it’s OK if it’s irregular in shape). Transfer the dough to the peel or the parchment.

Brush the dough with some of the oil, leaving a 1/2-inch border clear. Sprinkle half of the Parmigiano-Reggiano over the oil. Spread the onions over the pizza. Top with the Gruyere and thyme. Sprinkle the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano over the pizza. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper and lightly season with salt.

Carefully slide the pizza onto the pizza stone. Bake until the toppings begin to char and the crust is crisp and golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the pizza once for even cooking.

Slide the pizza off the stone and transfer to a cutting board. Immediately brush the border with some of the remaining oil. Garnish with thyme leaves.

Let stand for 3 to 5 minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve warm.

Roberta’s Pizza Dough

Active time: 10 minutes

Total time: 25 minutes plus rest and rising time

Yield: Makes 2 dough balls

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (153 grams) 00 flour

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon and 2 teaspoons (153 grams) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon (8 grams) fine sea salt

3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) active dry yeast

1 teaspoon (4 grams) extra-virgin olive oil

In a large mixing bowl, combine flours and salt.

In a small mixing bowl, stir together 200 grams (a little less than 1 cup) lukewarm tap water, the yeast and the olive oil, then pour it into flour mixture. Knead with your hands until well combined, approximately 3 minutes, then let the mixture rest for 15 minutes.

Knead rested dough for 3 minutes. Cut into 2 equal pieces and shape each into a ball. Place on a heavily floured surface, cover with dampened cloth, and let rest and rise for 3 to 4 hours at room temperature or for 8 to 24 hours in the refrigerator. (If you refrigerate the dough, remove it 30 to 45 minutes before you begin to shape it for pizza.)

To make pizza, place each dough ball on a heavily floured surface and use your fingers to stretch it, then your hands to shape it into rounds or squares. Top and bake.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

Stuffed mushrooms are timeless, popular appetizers. They make terrific hors d’oeuvres. The fillings vary from luxurious crabmeat or crumbled sausage to melty cheesy and wilted spinach. However, as rich and gooey as these fillings are, they run the risk of overpowering the flavor of the mushroom itself, which really isn’t fair. After all, if the humble mushroom is doing the heavy lifting as a vessel for the stuffing, it also deserves to be front and center in flavor.

This recipe gives the mushroom its due respect by using it in two ways: as the vessel and a duxelles filling. Duxelles is a French preparation of finely chopped mushrooms, sauteed until the juices release, along with aromatics to enhance the mushroom flavor. The result is an intense mound of fungi that may appear underwhelming, but delivers deep, earthy flavor.

Duxelles can be used in myriad ways. Spread a dollop on crostini for a simple appetizer; stuff them in fresh pasta or fold into risottos. Stir a spoonful into sauces as a flavorful thickener, or use them as a stuffing for poultry and a key ingredient in a traditional beef Wellington.

When making duxelles, any mushroom will do. However, a variety of wild mushrooms, such as porcini, shiitake, chanterelle and portobello, will gift you with richer flavor. And consider making an extra portion to have on hand. Duxelles can be made in advance and refrigerated for one week or frozen for up to one month.

Stuffed Mushrooms With Duxelles

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: Makes 12 stuffed mushrooms (and about 2 cups duxelles)

Duxelles:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 pound fresh mushrooms, such as cremini or porcini, cleaned and trimmed, coarsely chopped

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

Kosher salt

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons port wine or brandy, such as Calvados

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Mushrooms:

12 large, firm cremini mushrooms, about 1 pound

2 tablespoons cream cheese, softened

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley leaves

Olive oil for brushing

Kosher salt

1/4 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

Make the duxelles: Heat the oil and melt the butter in a heavy or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and shallot and season with salt. Saute until the mushrooms release their juices, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme and brandy. Saute until the juices evaporate and the mushrooms begin to color, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer the mushroom mixture to a food processor and pulse to chop without making a paste. Season to taste with more salt and the black pepper. Transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature.

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the stems from the mushrooms. Use a small spoon to carefully scoop out any gills and discard.

Add the cream cheese, 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano and parsley to the duxelles and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning.

Lightly brush the mushrooms with oil and a pinch of salt. Spoon the filling into the cavities. Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano and the panko in a bowl. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the mushrooms, gently pressing to adhere and slightly flatten the filling.

Arrange the mushrooms on a rack placed over a baking sheet (this will allow the mushrooms to drain their juices while baking). Bake in the oven until golden brown on top, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood