Marie Witscher starts rolling chilled cookie dough on a lightly floured pastry mat shortly after sunrise.
It takes several long days of baking, decorating and packaging to make the thousands of Christmas cookies she and her daughters give out each year during the holidays.
At 99 years old, Witscher no longer fills the caramel chocolate treasures herself, or drizzles chocolate over the tops of the delicate confections. She can’t see well enough to frost the almond bonbons. Even getting the sprinkles just right is now too challenging. But that hasn’t stopped her from teaming with her daughters to continue a tradition she’s kept for more than 60 years: handcrafting nearly two dozen types of the prettiest and tastiest Christmas cookies.
Together, they make more than 2,000 cookies to deliver to nearly 50 friends, who eagerly await the annual delivery, as well as for their own families.
Witscher started the assembly line-style baking system in her home in the St. Louis area, but in recent years, the operation has moved to her daughter Ellen Trovillion’s house nearby. The project takes over the entire kitchen and dining room for nearly a week.
“It’s truly a labor of love,” Witscher said. “There’s so much pleasure in doing it.”
Trovillion said they have strict standards as to which cookie recipes make the cut each year.
“A chocolate chip cookie is not a Christmas cookie,” she said. “It’s an everyday cookie. Our cookies are not like that.”
The ones they select must rise above in taste, appearance and how they fit in the overall collection. They scout recipes throughout the year and keep a box of notes on the ones they’ve tried over the decades. The chocolate category includes chocolate raspberry crumb bars, chewy chocolate espresso cookies (half-dipped in white chocolate) and chocolate cherry cookies. Among the fruity cookies, they will make apricot Linzers, spumoni sticks and orange dream star cookies. There’s also a category for standout "others," like the pistachio "melting moment" sandwiches with raspberry buttercream.
Of course, everything is made from scratch.
“It’s important that our cookies look pretty,” Trovillion said.
In years past, Witscher would stay overnight at her daughter’s house during the cookie-making days so they could rise early in the morning and keep going late at night. They could finish everything in a three-day marathon of baking. Nowadays, Witscher can’t stand in the kitchen for as long. She takes breaks in between batches and goes back to sleep in her own bed at night.
But the hard work is part of the joy.
“We have fun chatting about stuff,” Witscher said.
She grew up baking with her mother, and then taught her daughters the same rituals. When the girls were in high school, they would bake with their mom for the holiday parties their parents hosted. Before Witscher’s husband passed away, she always sent a huge platter of cookies for the teachers at the school where he taught. She was a teacher herself for 40 years, and her other daughter, Kathleen Armstrong, followed in her parents’ footsteps.
One of the cookies the ladies always make, the pecan dreams, is from a recipe written in Witscher’s mother’s handwriting.
“There’s so much pleasure in giving them to someone and seeing their smile,” Witscher said. “It sort of spreads the Christmas spirit to others.”
Trovillion said her husband has asked why they have to make so many different kinds of cookies -- trays of which cover their dining room table and countertops before they can be finished and packaged.
“We’ve been doing it this way for 40 years,” she said. She added that she loves seeing people’s reactions when they make their deliveries. Some of her mom’s friends are in various retirement homes or assisted living facilities, and they light up when they see her carrying a plate or tin of Christmas treats.
One friend freezes the cookies and only allows herself and her husband one each per day. Another hoards them in a spot where no one else in the family will find them.
The list of recipients gets tweaked over the years, which can provoke its own anxiety. One time, a person asked if they had done something wrong that year since they didn’t get any cookies.
For others who have heard stories about the family’s legendary cookie plates, the most pressing question is: “How do I get on the list?”