My mother never baked cookies when we were growing up. She baked sweetened ricotta dumplings, soaked in a thickened, sweet milk and garnished with slivered almonds and pistachios.
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Ras malai, a creamy, milky South Asian dessert, is now widely available at Indian restaurants and in the freezer section of Indo-Pak grocers. But in the '80s and '90s, I savored it straight from my mom's kitchen.
Not only is she an extraordinary home cook, she is a master at making the homemade Pakistani desserts of her childhood: gulab jamun -- fried balls of dough in a sweet, rose-tinted syrup; jalebi -- bright orange sticky spirals of fried batter; zarda -- sweet yellow rice with saffron, raisins and nuts; kheer -- a rich rice pudding; and kulfi -- a dense, frozen sweet cream.
My father, from whom I must have inherited my sweet tooth, used to say that dinner didn’t feel complete without dessert. We were equal-opportunity sugarholics: There was always a tub (or two) of Blue Bell ice cream and a Sara Lee pound cake in our freezer.
While I embraced every American dessert I encountered, none provoked the pure ecstasy of my mom’s ras malai.
Then, one day, someone brought tres leches into our home. The airy sponge cake was drenched in three types of milk and topped with whipped cream and fruit. It had a similar mouthfeel to ras malai, but its own distinct flavor palate.
I marveled at this newfound confection.
Tres leches became an important part of our Pakistani family’s traditions. If I was visiting my family in Texas for a celebration or holiday, I knew there would be tres leches. In the years before it landed on the bougie shelves of Whole Foods, we would get it from Fiesta -- a loud, eclectic Mexican grocery store chain in Houston.
Imagine my shock when I recently discovered the Ras Malai Tres Leches at Sweet Reserve Bakery in Lombard, Illinois. It’s described as a "super-moist sponge cake infused with cardamom and soaked in saffron three milks, topped with a cardamom-based whipped cream." They also have a gulab jamun cheesecake.
This is American ingenuity at its finest.
On Instagram, I saw someone making chicken tikka mac and cheese for Thanksgiving. A friend posted on Facebook that he was eating lunch at a ramen restaurant in D.C. that was owned by Mexicans, who were playing hip-hop music.
This blending and blurring and borrowing of cultures is a big part of what makes America great. We have more international migrants than any other country. By and large, we’re happy to embrace foods, festivals and cultures that are different from our own.
I saw this recently when I attended Dia de los Muertos celebrations in San Antonio. Some were on the same day as the city’s spectacular Diwali festival. I saw women with painted skeleton faces wearing floral crowns walking among the spectators in saris cheering the bhangra dancers.
I took in these scenes in joy -- we don’t just coexist, we co-celebrate, I thought.
Of course, this is the rosy side of the American story I like to tell myself and share with others. We’re also the same country that elects leaders who say immigrants are “poisoning the blood” of our country. We want our diversity contained to sparkly festivals and tasty foods -- not introduced into our boardrooms or our classrooms.
We will tolerate -- even admire -- culture differences until it’s more convenient to scapegoat those who carry those cultures.
We’re in a profoundly dichotomous American moment of both rising cultural fusion and growing xenophobia. It’s not as simple as one being a reaction to the other. There’s an unwillingness to connect a thing we enjoy to the humanity of the person behind it. That’s why some may love my mom’s homemade ras malai while also calling her a terrorist raghead.
But you can never truly appreciate a food, a style, a music or a culture without valuing its people.
My mom’s desserts made an indelible impression on my childhood not just because they tasted delicious. I could tell she made them with pride and love.
The ras malai was a way to share a part of her immigrant self with her American children.