On Nutrition

DEAR DR. BLONZ: I found an unopened pint of ice cream in my freezer that had been buried for about a year. I was disappointed to see that it had ice crystals, just like another container I had opened and resealed a number of times. What causes this, can it be stopped, and is there any danger from eating older ice cream in which this happens? -- S.Q., Chicago

DEAR S.Q.: Harmless water crystals can form on the surface of frozen foods during storage as the product's temperature fluctuates above and below freezing. Water typically freezes into large ice crystals, but such crystals in a frozen desert would lend an undesirably coarse texture.

There are methods to keep crystals tiny in ice cream and other frozen desserts; one involves constant stirring while the product is gradually chilled to the final storage temperature. When done correctly, it only allows mini crystals to form, and the dessert retains its smooth texture. Modern techniques chill frozen desserts using liquid nitrogen (-320 degrees F); with this method, the food chills faster than ice crystals can form.

Also important is temperature stability from the time the dessert is made until it is served. We all likely have experience with products whose temperature handling broke down along the way. (If this happens repeatedly, keep track of the particular products you purchased or the stores where you did so. Also investigate whether your freezer may be at fault.)

Ice cream in a carton can have a bit of "dead space" above the product. It is this, and any additional space once the dessert begins getting dished out, where the water in the ice cream can evaporate and refreeze during normal temperature fluctuations. The idea that water can vaporize at freezer temperatures may seem strange, but it can and does, given that the dry air in the freezer can pull the moisture out of the dessert. This rule of physics also helps explain the science behind freeze-drying and why some freezers had to be defrosted periodically (before the widespread use of mechanisms that do it automatically).

The longer it takes to use up a carton of ice cream, the greater the risk of crystal formation; keeping it out at room temperature for any length of time adds to the problem. However, crystal formation can be prevented by putting wax paper or some other moisture barrier on top of the dessert before returning it to the freezer. You may find that lower-fat frozen desserts have a greater tendency to form crystals, as these tend to have more water per unit weight.

DEAR DR. BLONZ: I am not allergic to milk, but I am definitely lactose intolerant. Where can I find a bread spread that contains no milk solids? -- J.B., San Diego

DEAR J.B.: The solids in milk will have proteins that anyone with a milk allergy must avoid. But your concern is lactose, and there is hardly any lactose in spreadable fats. With few exceptions, spreadable fats, including margarine and butter, get 100% of their calories from fat. This means there is no carbohydrate, and therefore no lactose, in these products. A cup of butter, for example, will have only about one-tenth of a gram of lactose.

Check the breakdown of your product on its Nutrition Facts panel to verify the absence of that carbohydrate. Even if there were a couple of grams per serving, it's doubtful that would be enough to cause a reaction in people susceptible to lactose intolerance. You might also consider adopting the European practice of using olive oil as a spread, with added herbs for flavor.

Send questions to: "On Nutrition," Ed Blonz, c/o Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO, 64106. Send email inquiries to questions@blonz.com. Due to the volume of mail, personal replies cannot be provided.

DEAR DR. BLONZ: I have read that calamari (squid) has more cholesterol than lean beef, but is lower in fat. Is this true? -- S.B., San Diego

DEAR S.B.: Most seafood is low in cholesterol, but squid is an exception, providing an excellent illustration that dietary cholesterol and fat don't always go hand in hand.

Cholesterol, which is not used as a source of energy, is present in every living animal cell. The fats and oils we eat and absorb represent nature's most concentrated form of dietary energy (calories); it is the form used for storage and will be found wherever any particular animal keeps its energy reserves. Cows and pigs, for example, store some of their fat energy around their muscle tissue. A "marbling" of fat in the muscle provides flavor and gives meat its tender texture, which is why meats tend to be high in cholesterol and fat. (As a side note, the level of marbling serves as the basis on which meats are graded. Read more on grading at b.link/225hz2.)

Such is not the case with squid, where the edible portion has no fat storage. As a result, the edible part of the squid comes with cholesterol, but without fat.

Now for the numbers: 3 ounces of raw squid contains about 200 milligrams of cholesterol and 1 gram of fat. (If breaded and fried, the fat content rises to 6 grams.) The same weight of a lean cut of beef, such as an eye of round, contains 60 milligrams of cholesterol and about 5 grams of fat. Both provide high-quality protein, vitamins and minerals, but squid also contains some of the long-chain omega-3 fatty acids.

It also helps to appreciate that the body makes its own cholesterol, and it tends to make less when cholesterol is present in foods; that means that dietary cholesterol does not have a direct additive effect. That said, a regular, hefty intake of dietary cholesterol can raise one's blood cholesterol level if it's part of an overall unhealthful diet and lifestyle.

The bottom line is that healthy individuals taking care of themselves while eating a balanced diet need not fear enjoying a higher-cholesterol food, such as squid.

DEAR DR. BLONZ: My mother always said that the white part of the orange skin was good for me. Dutifully, I have followed this advice for a lifetime. But lately, realizing my mother knows little about nutrition, I question its truth. What is the nutritional value of this part of the orange? -- N.N., Phoenix

DEAR N.N.: Your mother may know more about nutrition than you think. The entire orange (peel and flesh) contains numerous natural ingredients to protect the fruit. The fruit's fiber and phytochemicals are also associated with health-promoting properties. In addition to the juice, a number are found in the peel and the bitter-tasting white part, or pith, inside the citrus peel.

The potential health benefits of such substances also found in other fruits and vegetables continue to be studied. These protective compounds are found in plants to help assure their viability, but they tend to only be present in small quantities, plant genetics making enough to do the job. Having recommended servings of plant foods helps them work together for us.

Send questions to: "On Nutrition," Ed Blonz, c/o Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO, 64106. Send email inquiries to questions@blonz.com. Due to the volume of mail, personal replies cannot be provided.

DEAR DR. BLONZ: Attempting to cut back on carbs, I bought some "sugar-free" candy with maltitol as its primary ingredient. The Nutrition Facts information lists sugars as 0 grams per serving, but shows carbohydrates as 25 grams! Is maltitol just another form of sugar? -- D.W., via email

DEAR D.W.: Maltitol is another form of sugar -- in this case, sugar alcohol. Sugar alcohols are carbohydrate sweeteners that cannot be utilized by the decay-causing plaque bacteria in the mouth. Others include sorbitol, mannitol and xylitol. Per FDA regulations, if the only sweeteners are sugar alcohols, the product can be labeled "sugar-free."

Sugar alcohols do get digested, but not efficiently, because they are metabolized differently from other carbohydrates. These "sweets" do not cause blood glucose to rise and insulin to respond like typical carbohydrates do. There will be some calories, so the number of grams will be listed in the label's "Carbohydrate" category. Sugar alcohols are not considered "Added Sugars" for labeling purposes, but the amount per serving can be shown as a voluntary listing on a separate "Sugar Alcohols" line.

Read more about sugar alcohols at b.link/qxagxq.

DEAR DR. BLONZ: I appreciate your column about the shelf life of eggs, but I have some additional questions. What is the best method to handle home-raised eggs? Those usually have to be washed, but should that be done when they are gathered, or right before use? When I had hens in the backyard, I carefully numbered the fresh eggs so I always knew how old they were. Slightly older eggs, laid at least a week prior, peel better for hard-boiling and work better in baking recipes. I miss my sweet little hens. -- M.A., via email

DEAR M.A.: As eggs exit the hen through the cloaca, each gets coated with a thin protein-based protective layer called the cuticle, or bloom. This coating contains antimicrobial substances to protect the egg's viability as it sits. Hen- or farm-fresh eggs can last for a couple of weeks at room temperature. Be sure you know what you have, though: If they are fertile eggs (where the hen's roommate was a rooster), there could be other things going inside the shell.

Fresh-laid eggs are not sterile. The protective layer is meant to sustain the viability of a fertile egg long enough for the baby chick to develop; it does not make eggs more nutritious or safer for handling. On the egg's surface, even with an intact cuticle, there is a genuine risk of harmful microorganisms being present, including salmonella and Campylobacter. Whatever the unwashed eggs come in contact with will likely get a dose. The act of lifting them to write the date involves various types of contact, as will the process of cracking them, where pieces of the shell can go in unpredictable directions.

Given adherence to safe-food practices, there is no need to wash properly handled farm-fresh eggs. However, it is reasonable to wash eggs before use to limit these unknowns. Read more on fresh-laid egg safety at b.link/5kmef6.

Send questions to: "On Nutrition," Ed Blonz, c/o Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO, 64106. Send email inquiries to questions@blonz.com. Due to the volume of mail, personal replies cannot be provided.