I am tempted to call this a leek recipe with salmon (rather than a salmon recipe with leeks). The word order in a recipe title is important. It usually emphasizes the star of the dish first, followed by any supporting ingredients. In this recipe, the salmon is notably a main ingredient; however, I will argue that the leeks deserve to be the star.

Leeks are in the allium family, which includes onions, garlic, shallots and chives. As a proper allium, they do indeed have an onion-y flavor, but leeks are buttery and milder than their sharp and pungent siblings when cooked. They often play an important backup role in soups, stews and braises, where they subtly boost flavor and melt into the background of the dish.

In this recipe, leeks are quite literally the bed or base of the dish. They are chopped and sauteed until slippery soft and squidgy, creating a rich, sludgy compote on which salmon fillets rest. While the fish is arguably a focal point, the leek compote elevates this dish. A splash of white wine and chicken stock are added to the compote for savory oomph, and herbaceous tarragon adds a pop of freshness to each bite. It’s a sweet and buttery complement to the richness of the roasted salmon, with neither key ingredient overpowering the other -- a wonderful double act.

When cooking leeks, it’s important to clean them well to remove any grit or dirt between the layers. Simply trim the roots and the dark green tops, leaving the white and pale green parts for eating. (You can save the green tops for making a vegetable stock if you like.) With a sharp knife, halve each leek lengthwise, and peel away the tough outside layer. Thinly slice the leeks into half-moons and place in a salad spinner or colander. Run under cold water to rinse away any grit. Then spin or pat dry.

Roasted Salmon With Leek Compote

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

6 leeks, medium thickness, green tops and roots trimmed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chicken stock

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, plus more for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper

4 center-cut salmon filets, each 6 to 8 ounces, skin and pin-bones removed

Aleppo pepper flakes (optional)

Finely chopped chives for garnish

Finely grated lemon zest for garnish

1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges

Remove the roots and dark green ends of the leeks and discard any tough outer layers. Halve the leeks lengthwise, then thinly slice into half-moons. Place in a colander and rinse under cold water to remove any grit. Pat dry with a kitchen towel.

Melt the butter with 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Saute until the leeks are bright in color and slightly soft, about 4 minutes. Pour in the wine and simmer until the wine is nearly evaporated, about 2 minutes, stirring up any brown bits. Add the stock and continue to cook until the liquid is absorbed and the leeks are soft and sludgy, about 4 minutes more, stirring frequently. (If the pan dries out before the leeks are fully cooked, add chicken stock 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time.) Remove from the heat, stir in the tarragon, and season with black pepper. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if desired. Keep warm.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the salmon filets in a baking dish. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and Aleppo pepper flakes (or additional black pepper). Transfer to the oven and cook until just cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the salmon.

Divide the leek compote between serving plates. Arrange the salmon over the leeks. Sprinkle the chives and lemon zest over the plates and garnish with additional tarragon. Serve with lemon wedges.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

If I had to choose a favorite comfort food, I would nominate the meatball. Every cuisine seems to have a version of a meatball, whether it’s a truly meaty meatball packed with ground beef, pork or poultry; a pescatarian-friendly fish ball or patty; or a vegetarian version jumbled together with beans or legumes. No matter how you roll and cook them, meatballs are dependable dinner-winners. They are unfailingly forgiving, pleasing to all ages and adaptive to taste, diet and cuisine. Meatballs are also fun to eat in their myriad forms: skewered on sticks, smothered in sauce, swiped through a dip, or piled in a double-fisted sandwich.

This meatball recipe is a traditional favorite and perfect for a winter day. The key ingredient is a shower of grated Pecorino Romano cheese, which melts into the meatball, adding salty umami flavor while helping to bind the meat. A kick of crushed red pepper flakes provides a nice bite, which is easily adapted to your taste. This recipe makes a large batch of meatballs, which is hardly a problem. I often combine any leftover meatballs and marinara to make a chunky sauce, then freeze it to have on hand for a future pasta dish or lasagna. It’s a comfort food gift that keeps on giving.

Smothered Italian Meatballs Marinara

Active Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus chilling time

Yield: Makes about 20 meatballs

Meatballs:

1 pound ground beef

1 pound ground pork

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

3 garlic cloves, minced

3/4 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

1 cup (packed) finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for garnish

1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion

1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley, plus extra for garnish

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Olive oil for pan-frying

Marinara sauce:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian plum tomatoes

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the meatballs:

Combine the meatball ingredients in a large bowl. Using your hands, gently mix until the ingredients are evenly distributed. Shape the meat into 1 1/2-inch balls without overworking the meat. (Wet your hands with cold water from time to time to prevent sticking.) Place the meatballs on a platter and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Prepare the sauce:

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Stir in the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until slightly thickened, about 20 minutes.

Cook the meatballs:

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the meatballs in batches, without overcrowding, and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes, turning as needed. (The meatballs will not be cooked through at this point. They will continue to cook in the sauce.) Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining meatballs.

Add the sauce to the skillet and cook briefly over medium heat, stirring up any brown bits in the pan. Add the meatballs to the sauce and turn to coat. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat until the meatballs are thoroughly cooked through, about 30 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and grated cheese.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

When it comes to flavor, say yes to bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts. Chicken breasts often get a bad rap for their dryness and lack of flavor. Leaving the bones and skin on the breast helps to solve this problem. Not only do the bones add flavor to the meat while it cooks, but they help to distribute the heat, which prevents the meat from drying out. The skin also helps to keep the meat moist and tender by sealing in the juices; and, besides, who doesn’t like crispy skin?

This dish takes the ease of sheet pan cooking and upends it, literally, on top of a salad. Chicken breasts, fingerling potatoes and lemon wedges are jumbled together on one pan for a simple tray bake. Once roasted, the ingredients are arranged over a bed of escarole leaves, while the collected cooking juices from the chicken and lemon dress and slightly wilt the salad leaves for a casual and homey meal.

Warm Chicken and Fingerling Salad With Escarole

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Serves 4

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Kosher salt

4 large split bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, each about 10 to 12 ounces

1 pound fingerling potatoes, thickly sliced crosswise, about 3/4-inch thick

Freshly ground black pepper

1 large untreated lemon, washed, cut into 6 wedges

1 large head escarole, leaves rinsed and dried

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Whisk 1/4 cup olive oil, the garlic, lemon zest and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Rub the oil mixture all over the chicken and between the skin and breast meat.

Place the potatoes in a bowl. Toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with salt and black pepper.

Arrange the chicken skin side up on a rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment. Scatter the potatoes and lemon wedges around the chicken.

Transfer to the oven and roast until the chicken and potatoes are golden brown and cooked through (the internal temperature of the chicken should register 165 degrees), about 40 minutes.

Remove and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Carve the chicken off the breast bones and thickly slice crosswise, about 1/2-inch thick.

While the chicken is resting, place the escarole in a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon oil, 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper and toss to coat. Spread the leaves on a serving platter.

Arrange the chicken over the escarole. Scatter the potatoes around the chicken. Drizzle any pan juices over the chicken and potatoes. Squeeze the juice of 1 to 2 lemon wedges over the salad. Serve with the remaining wedges.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood