Grilled ribs are the perfect way to kick off summer and, more important, celebrate Father's Day. There are many ways to grill ribs, but my favorite method is to generously rub them with a dry spice, and then simply grill them low and slow until the meat is tender with a crispy crust. I may baste them with a sauce in the final moments of grilling for a shiny shellac, but I usually leave them as they are. The succulent meat provides enough moistness without softening the crispy coating. For sauce aficionados, I'll pass a bowl at the table for brushing and dipping.

When ribs are prepared this simply, the key to flavor perfection lies in the rub. A good rib rub should have a robust balance of sweet, salt and heat that will coat and permeate the meat as it slowly cooks. While the amount of heat (cayenne) may be adjusted to your taste, there should be a generous amount of salt, sugar and flavorful spices, such as cumin, chili powder and paprika.

This method is also ridiculously easy. All you need is time for the slow cooking. Start cooking the ribs early in the afternoon; place them over indirect low heat on the grill or pop them into the oven and forget about them for 3 hours. Thirty minutes before serving, finish the ribs on the grill, cooking them over direct heat just long enough for them to caramelize and crisp.

Dry Spice-Rubbed Baby Back Pork Ribs

Prep time: 15 minutes

Total time: 3 1/2 hours

Yield: 6 servings

For the rub:

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup light brown sugar

3 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon cayenne (or to taste)

3 racks baby back pork ribs

Prepare the grill for indirect cooking over low heat (or preheat the oven to 200 degrees).

Combine all the dry rub ingredients together in a bowl and mix well.

Pat the ribs dry with a paper towel. Arrange in one layer on rimmed baking sheets. Rub the spices all over the ribs on both sides, coating well.

Transfer to the grill; grill over indirect low heat, with the lid closed, for 3 hours, turning once or twice. (If cooking in the oven, transfer the ribs to the oven and cook for 3 hours, turning once or twice.)

To finish the ribs, grill the ribs over direct medium heat, with the lid closed, until the meat darkens and crisps, about 10 minutes, turning as needed. (If using a sauce: Baste the ribs with your favorite sauce a few minutes before removing them from the grill. Serve with additional sauce on the side.)

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Now that Memorial Day, the official gateway to summer, has passed, we can look ahead to the promise of long sunny days spent at the beach. For me, this vision is not complete without a bowl of clam chowder. Blame it on my New England roots, but slurping down a bowl of steaming creamy chowder is right up there with building sandcastles and slathering on sunscreen in the summertime; the chowder is best consumed near a beach or perched at a picnic table in a fishing harbor, accompanied by buckets of steamed clams and butter-slathered corn-on-the-cob.

For a number of years, I lived far from my East Coast roots, and when summer rolled around, I had access to a beach but not clam chowder. The only way I could cure my craving was to learn to make it myself.

Chowder (or "chowdah," as we say in New England) is actually quite easy to make. It's a simple concoction of milk, cream, potatoes and clams. The key is to create a smoky base to the soup with bacon and to add a little thickness with a roux, which is simply flour mixed into the fat from the bacon. I take a few liberties with the vegetables. Potatoes and onion are standard, but I often add leeks, celery root or even spinach to the mix. When you are selecting clams, be sure to choose the smallest ones you can get your hands on, such as littlenecks, middlenecks or Manila clams.

Clam Chowder

Prep time: 50 minutes

Total time: 50 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

2 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium leek, white part only, rinsed well and thinly sliced

1 small yellow onion, chopped

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups water or chicken stock, or more as needed

1/2 pound small fingerling potatoes, sliced 1/4 inch thick

1/2 small celery root, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch cubes, about 1 cup

3 sprigs fresh thyme, plus extra for garnish

1 bay leaf

1 cup whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

12 Manila or middleneck clams, or 24 littleneck clams

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Fry the bacon in the oil in a large pot over medium heat until the fat is nearly rendered, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the leek and onion and saute until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.

Sprinkle the flour into the pot, and cook until very lightly colored, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Slowly whisk in the water or stock, stirring to blend the flour. Add the potatoes, celery root, and enough stock or water to cover the vegetables. Add the thyme and bay leaf and bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pot and cook until the potatoes and celery root are tender, about 20 minutes.

Add the milk, cream and clams, making sure the clams are submerged. If not, add a little more milk. Partially cover the pot and simmer over medium heat until the clams open, stirring occasionally, 6 to 8 minutes. Discard any unopened clams. Add the salt and pepper and taste for seasoning. Ladle into bowls and garnish with fresh thyme. Serve immediately.

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There's something simply pleasing about an open-faced sandwich. When a sandwich is open, its filling becomes the topping, which is a lovely reflection of the sum of its parts and a visual tease, beckoning a bite. While the sandwiches will vary, often these tasty bites creatively incorporate simple ingredients or leftovers layered over a smear of olive oil or soft cheese on sturdy or day-old bread refreshed on the grill or in the oven. The presentation is fresh, minimal and artful, with a few leaves or sprigs for garnish.

This bruschetta includes fresh ricotta topped with roasted beets and a spoonful of garden pesto. I call it a garden pesto because I use handfuls of the fresh herbs that have popped up in my garden. When the garden isn't ready, I simply combine the supermarket herbs I've collected in my refrigerator. This can include any combination of parsley, mint, chives, dill, chervil, basil and oregano. The idea is that there is a mix of herbs, so that one flavor doesn't overwhelm the others. The result is a brightly green and herbaceous coulis that is delicious served with vegetables, fish, chicken, or mixed with rice and pasta. In this case, it's a vibrant garnish to this bruschetta.

Ricotta Beet Bruschetta With Garden Pesto

Prep time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Yield: makes 6 servings

Garden Pesto:

3 cups (packed) fresh herbs, such as parsley, mint, dill, chives, chervil, plus extra for garnish

1 small garlic clove

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Bruschetta:

6 slices ciabatta or levain bread, each about 1/2 inch thick

Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed for toasting the bread

1 cup fresh ricotta cheese

6 to 8 roasted and peeled baby beets, cut into wedges

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the pesto: Place the herbs and garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Process until finely chopped. With the processor running, add the oil in a steady stream until blended. If too thick, add extra oil to your desired consistency. Add the lemon zest, salt and pepper; pulse once or twice to blend. Taste for seasoning.

Heat the oven broiler or a grill. Lightly brush the bread slices with oil. Broil or grill until toasted golden on both sides but still tender in the center, about 2 minutes. Remove and cool the bread for 5 minutes.

Smear the ricotta on the bread, then drizzle some of the pesto over the ricotta. (You will not use all of the pesto. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for another use for up to one day.)

Top the bruschetta with the beets. Brush the beets with a little oil and lightly season the bruschetta with salt and pepper. Garnish with fresh herb sprigs and serve whole or cut in half for smaller bites.

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