TasteFood

It perplexes me when the subject of cheese fondue comes up, and it's often accompanied by a smile and a reference to the '70s. This quintessential alpine dish should not be relegated to that bygone era evoking images of shag rugs, shaggier hair and textured bell-bottoms. This was certainly not intended when the rural inhabitants of Swiss and French mountainous villages devised a warming winter dish incorporating their local cheese and winter staples.

Switzerland will always be considered home to our family. I lived there for 10 years following my stint at cooking school in Paris. My husband and I were married in Switzerland, and our children were born there. As an expat in Geneva, it was a delicious pleasure to embrace Swiss specialties, namely cheese, which we enjoyed in all of its forms. The Swiss tradition of melting cheese in deep pots with wine and spirits quickly became a family favorite. When we eventually moved away from Switzerland, I became more reliant on making my own version of fondue for wintry family dinners to satisfy our cravings.

This recipe has been tweaked and fine-tuned over the years, influenced by taste and available ingredients. In addition to serving it with the usual bread, I like to pass around bowls of parboiled baby potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets for dipping. Do not skimp on the cheese. Purchase the best-quality, cave-aged Swiss or French alpine cheese you can find, such as Gruyere, Emmental, Comte or Beaufort, and feel free to blend them to your taste. I like to use a blend of two-thirds Gruyere to one-third Emmental.

Alpine Cheese Fondue

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

1/4 cup Calvados or Poire Williams brandy

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

3 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc

1 garlic clove, minced

1 1/2 pounds alpine cheese, such as Gruyere and Emmental, coarsely grated

1 loaf country style or sourdough bread, cut in 3/4-inch cubes

(Note: Have all of your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you start, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred. The fondue must not come to a boil during this time.)

Whisk the brandy, cornstarch, salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and the nutmeg in a small bowl, until smooth. Set aside.

Combine the wine and garlic in a large heavy saucepan or fondue pot. Heat over medium until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance without bringing to a boil. Add the cheese one handful at a time, stirring constantly, until each handful is melted before adding the next -- do not let the fondue boil.

Once the cheese is added, continue stirring 1 minute -- do not let the fondue boil.

Stir in the cornstarch mixture and continue stirring until it thickens to a fondue consistency. (Some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, whisk 1 more tablespoon cornstarch with 2 tablespoons white wine and stir into the cheese.)

When the fondue is ready, remove from the heat. Pour cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary and place over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with extra ground pepper, the bread, and parboiled vegetables such as small potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets.

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This light and moist cake will carry you through the holidays and, for that matter, any day. Redolent with orange and cardamom and spiked with Grand Marnier, it's delicious for brunch or afternoon tea and spiffy enough for dessert. Almond flour adds a slight nuttiness and wholesome crumb to the cake. Do not skimp on the orange zest, as it adds a zing of citrus flavor and fragrance. The sea salt is optional in the glaze, but if you lean that way, really go for it.

The flavors of the cake will develop while it cools, and the glaze will ensure lasting moistness, which makes this cake an entertainer's best friend. Store the cake at room temperature for up to three days, but it will likely be eaten before that.

Orange Cardamom Olive Oil Cake

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 1 hour plus cooling time

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Cake:

4 large eggs

1 1/4 cups sugar

3/4 cup olive oil

3/4 cup fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon (packed) finely grated orange zest

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup almond meal

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

3/4 teaspoon salt

Glaze:

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier or Cointreau (optional)

Pinch of sea salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch spring-form pan; line with parchment and butter the parchment.

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until light in color. Add the olive oil, orange juice, zest, vanilla and almond extracts and stir to blend.

Combine the flour, almond meal, baking powder, baking soda, cardamom and salt in a separate bowl. Add to the wet ingredients, stirring to blend without overmixing. Pour into the prepared pan.

Bake until the cake is golden brown and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

While the cake is baking, prepare the glaze. Combine the sugar and orange juice in a small saucepan. Simmer until the sugar dissolves and the liquid reduces to a syrupy consistency, about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the liqueur, if using, and sea salt and simmer briefly, about 1 minute, stirring frequently.

Transfer the cake from the oven to a wire rack. Brush the top with the glaze and cool 10 minutes. Remove the sides of the pan, and then brush the sides of the cake with the glaze. Cool completely.

Serve dusted with confectioners' sugar and/or with whipped cream. If desired, add a tablespoon of the (thoroughly cooled) glaze to the cream while whipping. Cake can be stored at room temperature for up to three days.

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Add this recipe to your holiday spread. It's healthy, gluten-free and finger-friendly -- a perfect addition to a cocktail party or buffet. I can't get enough of these wraps and neither can my guests. Not only are they delicious, they are also pretty to look at. Crisp kale leaves are stuffed with a salty, smoky salad of flaked salmon, studded with capers, lemon, fresh dill and chives. Thanks to the sturdiness of the kale leaves, the wraps can be assembled in advance and refrigerated for up to 4 hours, which is ideal for entertaining. I recommend making an extra batch of the salmon salad, because it's that good.

Smoked Salmon Kale Wraps

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Yield: makes 24 to 30 wraps

12 ounces hot smoked salmon, flaked

1/4 cup whole milk Greek yogurt

1/4 cup finely chopped red onion

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon rinsed and chopped capers

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt, to taste

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

1/4 cup minced chives

8 to 10 lacinato (Tuscan) kale leaves

1 lemon, halved

Fresh dill sprigs for garnish

Combine the salmon, yogurt, red onion, lemon juice, capers, and Tabasco in a bowl. Stir with a fork to blend. If too dry, moisten with 1 to 2 more tablespoons lemon juice. Add the black pepper and salt, to taste. Fold in the chopped dill and the chives.

Cut the kale leaves crosswise into 2-inch pieces. Place 2 to 3 teaspoons salmon salad in the center of each leaf and fold the leaf around the salmon, pressing gently to hold in place. Repeat with remaining kale leaves. Arrange the wraps on a serving platter. Sprinkle with lemon juice and garnish with dill sprigs. Serve immediately. The wraps can also be refrigerated for up to 4 hours before serving.

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