In a splendid reflection of cultural priorities, count on the Danes to assign a bowl of soup as a measure of linguistic ability. For us well-intentioned yet decidedly non-Danish spouses and friends who have attempted to speak the language, there is an inside joke among Danes when it comes to testing our purported linguistic skills. Simply put, it’s to repeat the tongue-twisting phrase rødgrød med fløde, which directly translates as “red porridge with cream,” or a red berry soup.

So, what is it about this phrase that never ceases to delight our Danish friends while consistently providing them with a laugh? Suffice it to say that if you can even get your mouth around the correct sound for an “Ø”, you will likely stumble when you try to pronounce the “D” (of which, so it happens, there are many in this phrase). When spoken correctly, the Danish “D” should sound as though you are attempting to enunciate the letter “D” with a mouth full of, well, red berry soup.

Despite the challenges with this phrase, the upside is it describes a beloved and iconic dessert that you will be pleased to eat. In a country where the summer season can be fickle, if not fleeting, the brief yet prolific berry harvest is cause for jubilation, and, frankly, pigging out.

From the season’s first strawberries, followed by raspberries, black currants, red currants, blackberries and blueberries, they are abundant and everywhere: wild and farm-picked, sold by the roadside and in markets, and grown in home gardens. With such an embarrassment of riches, these juicy jewels are gobbled straight up, folded into desserts, preserved for later use, and, best of all, jumbled into a pot and cooked down into a red berry soup.

Every home makes a version of this soup, in which berries simmer with sugar until the juices release. The mixture is sometimes blended, but always cooled and served with a dollop of whipped cream or a swirl of creme fraiche. Perhaps a squeeze of lemon or a splash of vanilla is added, or even chopped almonds for a more toothsome texture. No matter the tweaks, the results are unfailingly delicious -- as dependable as the response I get whenever I try to say rødgrød med fløde.

Danish Red Berry Soup

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 15 minutes, plus cooling time

Yield: Serves 6

2 pounds mixed fresh berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, red and black currants

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Whipped cream or creme fraiche for serving (optional)

If using strawberries, halve or quarter if large.

Combine the berries and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the sugar dissolves and the berries release their juices, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Store in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours before serving.

Serve with whipped cream or creme fraiche, if desired.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

The star of this summer salad is Moroccan couscous. Couscous is often referred to as a grain, but this is a misnomer. These tiny morsels are grainy in appearance, but they are made from semolina and water and rolled into tiny granules. So, in fact, couscous is a type of pasta (and not gluten-free).

To confuse matters further, there are several types of couscous. Israeli or pearl couscous consists of larger globules, about the size of small pearls or peppercorns. They are toasty and chewier. Lebanese couscous is an even larger variation and less commonly found in the supermarkets. Moroccan or North African couscous is the finest and easiest to cook, due to its size. It merely needs to steam or steep in hot water for several minutes to soften. It has a mild and slightly nutty taste that provides a blank slate for absorbing flavor.

Couscous is also notable for its versatility. Add a smattering of spices to the hot water in which it steeps, and the couscous will obligingly absorb the aromatics and drive deep flavor into a dish. Use it as an accompaniment to stews, such as North African tagines, or as a side dish in pilafs and a neutral substitute for rice.

Couscous is delicious served warm or at room temperature and is a hearty base for salads. Top with cooked chicken, feta cheese or roasted vegetables. In this salad, the couscous is infused with Mediterranean spices and lemon and tossed with a generous amount of fresh green herbs. It provides a bright and aromatic bed for roasted onions and tomatoes, which blanket the couscous and infuse the grains with their pan juice.

Couscous Salad With Blistered Tomatoes and Red Onions

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

1 pint grape tomatoes

8 to 10 baby red onions, halved, or 2 to 3 small red onions, cut in wedges

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Couscous:

1 1/2 cups couscous

1 1/3 cups boiling water

2 large garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 cup packed fresh parsley leaves and tender stems, finely chopped

1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus more for garnish

Chopped fresh mint leaves for garnish

Lemon wedges for serving

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Toss the tomatoes, onions and 2 tablespoons olive oil in a bowl to coat. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment. Season with salt and black pepper. Roast in the oven until the tomatoes collapse and release their juices, and the onions are lightly charred and tender, about 30 minutes.

While the vegetables are roasting, combine the couscous, water, garlic, 2 tablespoons olive oil, the lemon juice, cumin, coriander, paprika, salt, black pepper and cayenne in a bowl. Cover the bowl and let stand until the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is tender, about 15 minutes. Fluff the couscous with a fork, then stir in the parsley, cilantro and lemon zest. Taste for seasoning.

Spread the couscous on a serving platter. Top with the tomatoes, onions and pan juices. Garnish with the mint, additional lemon zest, and lemon wedges for squeezing. Serve warm or at room temperature.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

I am a glutton when it comes to summer stone fruit. There is a window of time when nectarines, peaches, apricots and plums run rampant at the market. Mottled in vibrant swaths of purple, crimson and orange, their flesh is a perfect balance of sweet, tang and winey flavors. I could eat them all day long, but then my stomach would hurt.

When these fruity gifts are abundant, I usually overshop. It is an issue. My kitchen counters are lined with bowls and platters piled with fruit. So it’s no surprise that, even in my house, all the fruit can’t be eaten at their peak of ripeness. Some pieces become a little too ripe, buried at the bottom of the bowl, or even passed over for the newest batch from the market. As mentioned, I have indulgence issues.

This is an opportunity to make a crisp. It’s the dessert equivalent to a homey vegetable soup. Gather up all the ripe, somewhat passed fruit (as you might with vegetables for a soup), cut and chop, and spread a thick layer in a compact baking dish. Garnish with berries, if you like -- we’re talking summer fruit, after all -- and pile on a streusel topping.

In this recipe, raspberries team up with nectarines. The natural tartness of the raspberries matches the juicy tang of the nectarines. A little sugar and lemon help to produce a rich, murky, sweet-but-not-cloying filling. Once baked, it should cool to allow the filling to set and let the flavors develop. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Nectarine and Raspberry Crisp

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Serves 6

Topping:

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup old-fashioned oats

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup unsalted butter, cut in small cubes

Filling:

2 pounds nectarines (about 8) pitted, cut in 3/4-inch chunks

8 ounces raspberries

3 tablespoons sugar

Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

Prepare the topping: Combine the flour, oats, sugars, cinnamon and salt in a bowl of a food processor. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. (The topping may be prepared one day in advance. Cover and refrigerate until use.)

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Combine the nectarines and raspberries in a 2-quart baking dish. Sprinkle the sugar, lemon zest and cardamom over the fruit and gently stir to combine. Cover the fruit evenly with a thick layer of topping.

Bake in the oven until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove and cool on a rack. As the crisp cools, the filling will set. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood