It would be inaccurate to call this nourishing soup an authentic Vietnamese pho. The essence of pho is a daylong-simmered broth, typically made from beef or chicken bones. A handful of whole spices, such as star anise, cinnamon, cloves and coriander, mingle with the stock, infusing the soup with layers of flavor and fragrance. The broth is then ladled into deep, wide bowls filled with rice noodles and strips of beef, chicken or perhaps tofu. A slew of fresh garnishes and bowls of spicy condiments accompany the soup, ready for dipping and scattering over the steamy bowl.

It’s understandable that a piping hot bowl of pho is a crave-able meal, especially on a cold winter evening. It’s also predictable that cravings can strike unannounced and without mercy, inconsiderate of convenience and when you are least prepared. In these urgent moments, the solution is to improvise.

This simple soup is an easy weeknight dish that mimics a pho without the loving labor of time that would make it truly authentic. It relies on a prepared or store-bought stock simmered with a few toasted aromatics to build flavor in a quickly assembled soup. You might call it a faux pho.

For this soup, use a good-quality prepared chicken stock or bone broth. For the meat, you can cook and shred chicken meat or rely on leftovers. Don’t skimp on the fresh garnishes, which are an important component of the soup: crisp bean sprouts, leafy herbs and fresh chiles, along with squirts of lime, Sriracha and hoisin provide freshness and heat to the heady broth. In pho terms, it may not be the real deal, but for an easy weeknight dinner, it’s a satisfying and slurp-worthy alternative.

Vietnamese Chicken and Rice Noodle Soup

Active Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as grapeseed

1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped

1 (2-inch) knob of fresh ginger, coarsely chopped

6 cloves

2 star anise

1 (2-inch) stick cinnamon

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

6 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

8 ounces vermicelli rice noodles

2 to 3 cups shredded cooked chicken meat

3 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

Garnishes:

Sliced red or green jalapeno peppers

Mung bean sprouts

Fresh mint, cilantro, and/or Thai basil leaves and sprigs

Lime wedges

Sriracha

Hoisin sauce

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and

ginger and saute until the onions begin to brown in spots, about 5 minutes. Add the cloves, star anise, cinnamon stick, coriander seeds and peppercorns and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the stock, fish sauce, brown sugar and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover the pot and simmer for 30 minutes.

While the soup is simmering, cook and drain the noodles according to the package directions.

Strain the soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean pot. Add the chicken to the soup and simmer over medium-low until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning if needed.

Divide the noodles between large serving bowls. Sprinkle an even amount of scallions and cilantro over the noodles. Ladle the soup into the bowls. Serve with the garnishes.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

Following the season of rich holiday dinners, it’s refreshing to launch into the new year with bright and steamy Asian soups. Curries, pho and ramen are examples of comforting Asian bowl foods. Swirling with slurpy noodles and heady spices, they provide crave-able dinners that jolt the senses and wake the palate from any lingering food comas.

Ramen is a noodle soup that originated in China and was imported to Japan, where it is a popular dish. This homemade version brims with wilted greens and mushrooms on a slick of noodles, swimming in a gingery, garlic-infused broth. It’s not precisely authentic, but that is the point. With a few key staples, such as soy sauce, ginger and mirin, you can create a satisfying rendition in your kitchen that will hit all the right notes to satisfy a winter craving -- without putting on your snow boots.

Use this recipe as a template. Other vegetables, such as carrots, kale and bok choy, can be added. Chicken or tofu can be substituted for the pork: Simply follow the recipe for the marinade and switch out the protein. Then roast or pan-fry the chicken or tofu before adding to the soup.

Pork Ramen

Active time: 45 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes, plus marinating time

Yield: Serves 4

Marinade:

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 large garlic clove, grated

1 tablespoon mirin or sake

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 pork tenderloin, about 1 pound

Soup:

1 tablespoon oil

4 cloves garlic, minced or pushed through a press

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

6 cups chicken stock

3 scallions, white and green parts divided, white parts cut into matchsticks, green parts chopped and set aside for garnish

3 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

2 tablespoons mirin

1 teaspoon Asian hot sauce, such as Sriracha

6 ounces shiitake mushrooms, ends trimmed, sliced 1/4-inch thick

4 cups packed baby spinach leaves, about 4 ounces

4 portions dried or fresh ramen noodles

4 eggs, cooked to a jammy consistency, peeled and halved (optional)

Sesame seeds for garnish

Chili sauce

Whisk the marinade ingredients in a small bowl. Place the pork in a baking dish, pour the marinade over and turn to coat thoroughly. Marinate for at least 1 hour or overnight, turning occasionally. Remove from the refrigerator 15 minutes before roasting.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Roast the tenderloin until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 145 degrees, about 20 minutes, depending on the thickness. Let rest for about 10 minutes, then cut into 1/4-inch slices.

While the pork is roasting, prepare the soup. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a pot over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger and crushed red pepper and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chicken stock, white scallions, soy sauce, mirin and hot sauce. Bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, over medium-low heat for about 20 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to simmer until soft, 6 to 8 minutes more.

While the soup is simmering, steam the spinach until wilted. Squeeze any excess liquid from the spinach and set aside.

In a separate pot, cook the ramen noodles according to the package instructions. Drain, then divide the noodles among four serving bowls.

Ladle the soup into the bowls, just covering the noodles. Arrange the pork and spinach over the noodles. Drizzle with any collected juices from the meat. Top with more broth as desired. Add eggs around dish, if using. Garnish with the green scallions and sesame seeds. Serve with chili sauce.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

A hit of salt is a key ingredient in sugary desserts. As enticing as sweet confections are, an abundance of sugar can be cloying, leaving the palate searching for that extra something to balance the sweetness. Salt is the answer.

A little salt disappears into desserts, helpfully reducing any bitterness or sourness. But you don’t always need to be modest: In some desserts, an extra kick of salt -- where it is notably detected -- not only tames the sugar, but enhances umami. Umami is that difficult-to-describe taste sensation that is considered the sixth taste. It adds a deep, savory and rich element to food, working in harmony with the ingredients.

In the case of these sugary caramelized pecan bars, the sensation of umami accentuates the burnished caramel topping and toasty nuts and complements the buttery shortbread. The flavor is balanced and moreish, encouraging second (and third) helpings. If desired, double the recipe and bake in a 9-by-13-inch baking pan.

Pecan Shortbread Bars

Active time: 40 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Makes about 16 small squares

Crust:

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup rice flour or cornstarch

1/3 cup confectioners' sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, diced

Filling:

3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter

2/3 cup packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons honey

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons heavy cream

2 cups chopped pecans

Sea salt flakes, for sprinkling

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch-square baking pan and line with parchment.

Make the crust: Combine the AP flour, rice flour, confectioners' sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse once or twice to blend. Add the cold butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand.

Dump the mixture (it will be dry and crumbly) into the prepared pan and press to form an even layer. Transfer to the oven and bake until the edges of the crust are golden and the center is just set, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool.

Make the filling: Combine the butter, brown sugar, honey, vanilla and salt in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let boil for 1 to 2 minutes, then whisk in the cream until smooth. Add in the pecans and stir to combine.

Evenly spread the filling over the crust. Transfer to the oven and bake until the filling is bubbling and caramel in color, 18 to 20 minutes. (It will still be wet.) Transfer to a rack and sprinkle with sea salt flakes. Cool completely. The filling will firm up as it cools.

Cut into bars or squares. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood