DEAR DR. NERDLOVE: I think this will be a lot lighter than a lot of letters that you receive, and it’s perhaps a little funny, but it’s a problem none the less, and I’m a little worried that there’s some problematic luggage in my brain that I’d like to unpack and then throw on a bonfire.
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Basically, I’m a cis straightish guy, but on a night out with friends recently one of them let slip that there’s a bit of a joke that I dress like a stereotypical lesbian.
I actually found the observation pretty funny, know that it wouldn’t have come from a place of cruelty and I don’t entirely disagree with it. They image searched “stereotypical lesbian outfit” and well, I did a double-take on a couple of pictures thinking they were me. I’ve always thought of my typical dress sense as kind of grunge-meets-redneck and no other connotations ever really struck me. I’m socially adroit enough to be capable of dressing for the occasion, but let’s say a it’s a night where I go for a beer or two and watch some live music, then yeah, I’ll likely be wearing a flannel shirt, jeans, wallet chain and trucker cap. Coupled with my piercings and haircut, which are pretty androgynously coded, I get it. I play a sport that is often associated with queer women and my Spotify list isn’t short on the likes of Sleater-Kinney or Bikini Kill in the context of me enjoying alternative-rock more generally. It’s not like Nirvana and Fugazi don’t feature heavily too. I’ve read The Bell Jar, but only because good literature is good literature. I’ve read Hemmingway too.
I’d like to point out at this juncture that stereotypes are just that: stereotypes, but they do usually have a basis in patterns. You can’t always tell something about someone just by how they dress, but I guess some people do try and communicate things with their clothes.
When the hangover faded, a couple of questions stuck with me.
The first is: Am I giving off a weird vibe? I don’t think so, I have plenty of women as friends, some of whom have laughed too and agreed when I’ve mentioned this, as does my partner. But it does worry me that I come across as one of those dudes who tries to position himself as “one of the good ones”. I don’t think anything else in my behaviour suggests that, but it worries me I might be perceived that way just for trying to live in a way I enjoy. Additionally, if not that, am I negating or diluting my own appeal? I’m happily with someone, and they say they like how I dress, but I do wonder about how I’m perceived.
The second is more complex. I actually kind of do feel like I’m performing in a sort of drag socially. I was a misfit as a teenager and I was really uncomfortable with the laddish culture (I’m from the UK, so think football, Oasis and boorish jokes) that surrounded me. Groups of guys make me nervous. So, dressing like I do feels like I’m sort of playing the part of a guy rather than actually being one. I have plenty of male friends too, but do find it hard to connect with guys who are stereotypically masculine in their attitudes and interests. I don’t think I feel my gender strongly, but that’s perhaps a luxury of being secure in it?
What do I do, Doc? Do I burn my and-shirts and sneakers and dress in a Soccer shirt and chinos when I dress casually? Cut my hair and only listen to Metallica? I kid, but I’m not sure what my question is entirely, just that I’m kind of in a bit of a spin.
Yours,
Jewel Has Some Great Stuff, Actually
DEAR JEWEL HAS SOME GREAT STUFF, ACTUALLY: I think it says something about my age that everything you describe about how you dress sounds way more like you’re from the mid-90s or doing upcountry degen cosplay, rather than dressing like a stereotypical lesbian. Throw in a beat-to-s--t pickup and a pack of American Spirits and a bigmouth of Mickey’s and you’d be most of the way there.
(Granted, the overlap in this particular Venn Diagram is very, very large.)
More to the point though: I think you’re seriously overthinking what was an off-hand and not terribly serious comment by a friend, and I think you’re also mistaking the signifiers that come with your style. The look you describe is “stereotypical” for lesbians because it’s a very working class look, which tends to code as a very butch look. The whole idea behind “stereotypical lesbian” is predicated on the idea that lesbians eschew a lot of femme presentation – short hair, more masculine style of dress and behavior, no make-up and so on. That is: the stereotype for “lesbian” that you’re working from are about women who dress and look more like men than like women. So, to the extent that your presentation is sending off a weird vibe, it’s only a weird vibe in that you’re seeing what’s ostensibly male-coded clothing and style being reflected back at you.
(I’d also point out that what you’re describing as ‘androgynously coded’ IS masculine; a significant of what we tend to consider ‘androgynous’ is usually “male, but skinny/soft”. Entire PhD dissertations can and have been written about this…)
I rather strongly doubt that anyone who looks at you thinks that you’re trying to position yourself as “one of the good ones”, so much as thinking that maybe you watched one too many documentaries about the Seattle grunge scene or that you’re the product of being at the tail end of the 30-year nostalgia cycle. Is it weird? Enh, I’ve seen far weirder on an average Tuesday. Nothing about your look would get you more than a passing glance or make you stand out at any of the local dive bars.
Now you are correct in that clothes are an outward expression of ourselves. The clothes we choose are a way of communicating who we are to the people around us. It often gives a shorthand as to who we are as people and what we’re about. We wear our affiliations and values on our shirtsleeves – literally. Someone who’s wearing an Austin FC or Manchester United shirt is signaling tribal affiliation, as much as someone wearing designer labels. Even when someone doesn’t put much thought into their style and presentation, that still conveys meaning and message – in this case, that they don’t care that much about their presentation. It’s part of why “dressed like a tornado hit their closet” has long been short-hand for absent-minded genius/creative type; presumably they have more pressing matters to focus on than whether their belt goes with their shoes, their shirt and trousers are freshly pressed and so on. So the way you dress does send a message about you, and it’s worth asking if that message matches with who you are as a person.
But it’s the ‘who you are as a person’ part that’s way more important. You touch on something in your letter that I don’t think you realize: a lot of traditional ideas about gender is just performance. Being a cis man doesn’t mean that you were born with a love of big boobs and crude jokes any more than being a cis woman means they were born with an inherent love of the color pink (which, incidentally, used to be considered a masculine color) and cosmetics. Sometimes we like those things and they line up with our gender, but sometimes we like those things despite or regardless how they line up with our gender. Some of it may be nature, but a hell of a lot more of it is nurture, and the “nature” aspect has more to do with personality than chromosomal pairings. Some of it can be shaped, even encouraged by societal expectations and pressure, but again: that’s not a sign of anything inherent to your gender or hormones.
When you rattle off all the ways you’re “less masculine” or giving “androgynous” vibes, you’re rattling off things that are gendered by association, but aren’t inherently gendered in and of themselves. Bikini Kill and Sleater-Kinney may appeal more strongly to a particular demographic, but that doesn’t mean that it’s exclusively for women, any more than Oasis is exclusively for men. Liking football and beer is associated with masculinity, but plenty of women, even very feminine women love both. Your gender isn’t defined by your Spotify playlist any more than it’s defined by your haircut, the books you read or the clothes you wear – no matter how many conservatives scream about it. Your gender is defined by you – not what’s in your pants or in your genes but by what’s in your head; everything else comes from that.
Do you like things that are more female-coded? Ok… that just makes you someone who likes those things. There’s no spreadsheet keeping track of your man-points and woman-points. There’s no tipping point where, if you cross beyond 50% of masculine or feminine coded interests, you’ve reduced your inherent gender identity. It’s just what speaks to you.
You have a hard time connecting with “stereotypically” or “traditionally” masculine men, but is that because you’re not as manly, or because you simply don’t have much in common with them? There’s a difference between “I don’t connect with these people because I’m not ‘enough’ of a man” and “I don’t connect with these people because I’m not into what they’re into and I find the way they behave to be off-putting”. Not liking loud, aggressive or rambunctious behavior doesn’t mean you’re not manly enough any more than being quiet, empathetic or submissive makes you a woman. It’s just who you are.
Are you a man? Then whatever you do is “man s--t”. If I take up knitting, that makes knitting manly. When my female friends pick up a hammer and a drill to put up some shelves, that’s feminine, because it’s a woman doing it. Don’t like lad mags and boner-jam movies? Ok… but you don’t need to be a man to like those any more than being a man makes you like them. Some folks dig ‘em, some folks think they’re stupid; the amount of influence it has on your inherent gender is f--k-all.
You ask what to do, but honestly, if you’re happy with who you are, there’s nothing to do. There’s nothing wrong with you and there’s nothing that needs to change. Do the things you mention limit your appeal? Sure… to a certain type of person. But that’s going to be true of anyone; there’s no such thing as universal appeal. Some people are drawn to more “traditional” ideas of masculinity and others are put off by it. Lots of people are drawn to softer dudes, more erudite or refined or restrained dudes and just as many are into guys who are confident enough in their masculinity to embrace their softer and more feminine side.
(And that’s before we even get into the debate of gender being a spectrum rather than a binary.)
You are who you are. If you like who you are? Then rock on, and people who don’t like it or think you’re doing “manhood” wrong can f--k off into the sun.
Good luck.
Please send your questions to Dr. NerdLove at his website (www.doctornerdlove.com/contact); or to his email, doc@doctornerdlove.com